
[La Sagrada Família, Barcelona]
By Craille Maguire Gillies
Unable to stand the crowds after spending several days in Barcelona over the holidays, I scoped out another vantage of La Sagrada Família, Gaudí’s enormous, yet-to-be-completed church. Lines of people waiting to enter snaked around one corner and, turning that corner, I discovered that they snaked around the next, too. I found a clearer panorama at the entrance to a KFC, where the lines were also long and spilled out the door. I tripped over a pigeon eating a French fry as I staked out my spot.
You can’t seem to walk three blocks in Barcelona without running into a Gaudí masterpiece — though by masterpiece I am referring to scale. In architecture, as in cities, grand has more than one meaning. This premise was challenged a week earlier in Vienna when I came upon the marble façade of Alfred Loos magnificent, but relatively diminutive Loos-Haus, directly opposite the grand palace, the Hopfburg, where Hitler declared Austria part of Germany in 1938.

[Loos-Haus, Vienna]
Despite the striking façade, Loos-Haus is unornamented and spare, a few flower boxes are the architect’s sole concession to then-emperor Franz Joseph, who is said to have called the building the “house without eyebrows.” One hundred years after the Loos building went up, after modernism and post-modernism, Loos’ iconoclasm is difficult to reconcile — until you realize that the plain façade of Loos Haas with the neo-Baroque apartments across the street were built at the same period. Masterpieces are often, but not always, large.
When seeking out suggestions on what to see in Barcelona, almost everyone I spoke with gave a list that included a few sights by the Spanish architect, prefaced with, “If you like Gaudí, you might visit…” In Paris, no one would suggest you visit the Eiffel Tower “if you like hideous, tall buildings.” Even Frank Gehry, an architect prone to odd shapes and a nearly monolithic style, doesn’t provoke the same response. As in, “If you like shiny, amorphous buildings that look like they were crafted from aluminum foil you might stop by the Guggenheim.” Gaudí, though, Gaudí is different. Which made me wonder, what do locals think of Gaudí? Do they think of Gaudí? Is he not simply there in the way that a birthmark is there, irrevocable, unnoticeable?
And yet his legacy is so recent. Few European cities have such a large catalogue of work by one architect who worked not so long ago.
Cranes and scaffolding are seemingly permanent fixtures along one side of Sagrada Família. Take or leave the buildings, but this is the most transparent metaphor for cities that I’ve seen these last few weeks in Europe: a city always in progress, never finished, crafted from layers of concrete and stone and glass. I like the idea of a city that is more of a collage than one person’s artistic statement, and this is where, during my outsider’s archi-tour of Barcelona, I find Gaudí’s iconoclasm difficult to square.
Alfred Loos is said to have proclaimed something along the lines of, “Ornament is crime.” The only ornament should come from the materials, he believed. This sentiment came to mind I stood in front of the KFC in a territorial battle for “view” with tourists and that lone pigeon. For Gaudí, the ornament was also in the materials. His buildings look like they were carved from enormous hoodoos by a violent wind, like the one that whipped gravel into my eyes when I jogged along Platja de la Nova Icària.
With some shame and embarrassment, I’ll admit that I prefer “pretty” buildings and would give up waiting in line for hours to see the inside of Sagrada Família to instead wander the barrios of Barcelona. I do not always find what I am looking for, but it never seems to matter.

[Bryce Canyon, Utah]